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I picked up golf about 3 months ago, I currently have a Wilson beginner set which I can only drive up to 160 yards tops, the distance is always around there but never more. So Im thinking about changing driver, a lower my list down to these 2…
Titleist clubs are not forgiving at all. being a beginner go to a golf shop tell them what you can afford and that you want the most forgiving for the money.
Popularity: unranked [?]
is taylormade the only compnay that has the movable weight technology on their drivers?
The Mizuno MP-600, the Nickent 4DX-T, Tour Edge V-25 and Adams Insight BTY all have adjustable weights.
Popularity: unranked [?]
I have had my driver for a little over 2 years, will I lose yardage over time?
Another reason could be the golfer ageing and loosing strength.
Popularity: unranked [?]
The Cleveland HiBore Bloom Driver
The Callaway Womens FT-9 or FT-IQ Driver
The Taylormade Womens Burner or R7 Driver
The Ping Rhapsody Driver
The Nike Womens SQ Dymo
Popularity: 2% [?]
what are good golf drivers/woods for womens?
i am look for drivers/woods and i want to know the best drivers/woods for womens
I use Taylormade, and they suited me best.
I’m female and have been playing for a while.
Popularity: 2% [?]
High, I am looking for a new golf driver. I currently have a cleveland hibore xl. I was looking at callaway drivers, and I was wondering which would give me more distance, the new cleveland’s, or the new callaway’s? Also, I have a 10.5 loft on my hibore, but I think I am hitting my drives way to high. It starts out low, then flies higher and higher, and then abruptly falls towards the ground. Should the new driver I purchase have a 9.5, or even a 8.5 loft? And, if the shaft is too weak, would that cause my ball to do this?
Hello,
Don’t know where you live, but the best method on knowing which type driver (or clubs in general) is best for you, you should have your swing analyzed by a professional. Many upscale golf supply shops (Golfsmith, Roger Dunn, etc), have facilities to do this. To know which is best for you, it depends on your swing speed, you skill level, how serious you are about golf, how much you want to spend, etc. Your swing speed determines the club shaft best for you (regular, stiff, ex-stiff,etc). It also determines steel shafts vs graphite. Good drivers can be expensive, so it is best to have your swing analyzed by someone with skill. If you do not want to go through that time, then visit one of the golf shops mentioned above, you can use their demo clubs at their indoor practice areas to determine which one works. Hope this helps.
Popularity: 2% [?]
I agree with the majority- a $300-$500 driver won’t make you better, just the same as a $50-$100 driver won’t make you better. What it comes down to is fitting- the length, loft and shaft flex need to be optimized for your swing style and swing speed to make a difference.
That’s not to say you can just buy any old driver, however. Most of the drivers you see at Wal-Mart (but not all- I’ve actually seen a couple of TM r5’s at my local Wally World) are a titanium bi-matrix… which means it’s only partially titanium, and not as strong as normal titanium. While it’s possible to crack a Cobra or Titleist or whatever (it just happens sometimes) on the first go, it’s even more easy to crack these bi-matrix drivers. Shaft standards are even worse- it may say "R", but play like an "A", or even a "L".
You may get peace of mind from a Callaway or a Nike, but you also can’t go wrong with something from a place like Hireko or GigaGolf- just beware the clubs from places that are WAAAAAYYY too close to actual expensive drivers- the SV2 (looks too much like a Nike SQ2), Heater (like TM’s Burner), for examples. They’re just as bad as the stuff at Wal-Mart.
Popularity: 48% [?]
yes to stiff short right very low. 30 yards off line. proper flex slight draw. to weak high unconrable hook. very rare. to many people purchase stiff. regular is the best old time rule. better to have to weak a flex than to stiff. factory shafts nobody knows what they are. it may say stiff. low kick point all over the place. just to many confusing options. i just buy last years model with x flex replace the shaft brand new driver.
Popularity: 2% [?]
where they are meant to be played.
-a driver is made to be played of of a tee box
-a fairway wood is meant to be played from the fairway.
-a hybrid is meant to be played any where but it is very good in the ruff.
Popularity: 2% [?]
Hi. In 2007, I was only hitting my driver about 220 yards. For that reason, I bought a cleveland hiBore XL driver with a regular shaft. Now, I am hitting my driver around 270-280 yards. Should I spend the money to get it re-shafted to a stiff flex, or should I just buy a new driver altogether?
Depends, if your comfortable with your driver and are hitting it well without problems, maybe a new shaft is all you need for now. Stiff Flex can make you hit it even farther IF your swing speed matches up but if your swing speed is too slow a stiff flex may cause you problems. But then again if your still not sure i definitely suggest going to a local golf retailer where you can try out some newer drivers. Remember theres new technology coming out every year that can make you a better player. But make sure your comfortable with the new driver if you choose to get one because if your not comfortable and consistent it may be a costly mistake.
Popularity: 2% [?]