Best Golf Driver

I have played golf for few months, and with practices I expect that I could do better! However, I feel that there is something with my golf swing skills. I asked from some professionals and I do practice the way they asked for.. however, it is not working right!

Anyone can give me some suggestions or possibilities so that I can improve!? Thanks!

The key to hitting accurate approach shots is executing the fundamentals during your iron swing—setup, takeaway, backswing/downswing, impact, and finish. How you execute the fundamentals during these phases determine how well you hit an iron. Some professionals that give golf instruction sessions include the transition from backswing to downswing as a separate phase. Making a smooth transition from your backswing to your downswing is critical. But in the interest of space, we’ve included it as part of the backswing.

Setup
There’s no reason not to start with a good setup. Flex at the knees, stand firmly on the balls of your feet, bend from your hips not your back, adopt a straight (but not rigid) back, and balance your weight evenly over both feet. Think "rock and roll" to remind you that feet serve as a rock through your backswing and roll through your downswing. And don’t overlook ball position. It’s never farther back than your sternum or farther forward than your left armpit.

Takeaway
It’s critical that you make a good takeaway. Watch golfers who have low golf handicaps. Most will have good takeaways. Some teachers use the 2-8-12-rule in their golf lessons. During the first two inches of your takeaway, take the club straight back. From the second inch to the eighth inch, take the club back some more, but don’t break your wrists. This is a natural continuation of your takeaway. From the eighth inch to the twelfth inch, start breaking your wrist. At this point, the club should be parallel to the ground and the target line. In the rough, you’ll need a slightly steeper takeaway.

Backswing
Shifting your weight to your back foot is crucial in your backswing. It enables you to make a good coil and prevents you from making a reverse pivot. So keep until your weight shifts to your back foot. Keep your hands away from your body. At the top of the swing, a straight left arm is ideal but a slightly bent elbow is also acceptable. Your head should be behind the ball.

Make a smooth transition to the downswing. From this position, you’re ready to turn toward the target. Allow your hands to drop underneath your head as you begin shifting toward your front foot. The club should be directly over your rear shoulder. You should be approaching the ball with a descending blow.

Impact
This is the moment of truth. Good golfers know that at impact they need to achieve a "stacked" position to make solid contact. This position includes a full release of the wrists, a straight left arm (right for left-handers), most of your weight transferred to the front foot, and your hips open. Contrary to popular belief, the impact position isn’t the same as the setup position. With longer irons, allow for a slower wrist cock. This widens your swing and provides the flatter arc these clubs require.

Finish
Your finish tells you a lot about what’s going on during your swing. The correct finish ends with the bodyweight primarily on the front foot, the club behind you, and your head, chest, and belt buckle facing the target. You also should be balanced and able to hold that position indefinitely. From your finish position, you can tell two things: (1) if the majority of your weight has successfully shifted to your front foot, and (2) if your body has fully rotated without excessive sliding through the downswing, which will produce mis-hits.

Driving the ball is indeed sexy. But it’s only one phase of golf. If you’re serious about improving, you must master your irons, too. A 300-yard drive is worthless if you don’t follow up with an accurate approach shot. Use the golf tips we’ve provided above to hone your iron swing. It will help you hit more greens in regulation and chop strokes off your golf handicap.

Extract from ….whatever,i forget.

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Hi, I’m looking at the Callaway FT-5 driver…and i’m wondering if there is a big difference between the Draw and the Neutral clubs. What sort of players should get which club?

I tend to push my shots a bit (both irons and driver), and sometimes have a big slice when i get lazy with the driver… I’m more of a natural fader than a natural draw…

thanks!
oh, and if i get a draw driver, should i also get draw irons to match?

the draw biased driver will be a few degrees closed to promote a hook when the ball is drawn, a draw when hit straight and promote a straighter ball flight when the ball is sliced or pushed – it is a good idea for a beginner or a player who hits the ball the same way every time – go hit one in a launch monitor and see what you ball does and a pro can determine if it is best for you – good luck

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I am 13 years old and I dont no what ball I should use. The clubs in my bag are A Nike Sumo 2 driver, a Taylor Made 5 wood, Titelist 3-PW irons, and a Callaway SW, and a crappy putter. I drive the ball about 190-205 yards on average and hit my irons pretty well. I need help find what golf ball or brand of balls I shot be hitting. Any ideas?

i am also 13 and i use titleist tour prestige

i know you probably haven’t heard of it but they play good near the greens

if you lose a lot of balls, id get nxt tour or nxt extreme because for the play, its not really worth wasting 45 bucks on 12 pro v1s that you will lose after a couple of rounds

it all depends how good you are and how much money you are willing to spend

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Hi all… just in the market for a new driver to help out my golf game. I currently shoot in the high 80’s to low 90’s. My irons are Nike Slingshot OSS and I absolutely love them. I have an older Callaway Big Bertha driver, but I’m looking to replace it. I’m pretty sure that I’m settled on a Taylor Made Burner Driver, but I’m just not sure what configuration I want. For example, should I get the 9.5 or 10.5 degree club? Also, should I go for the Draw version or the regular version? As of now, I don’t slice the ball too bad, but it does fade on occassion. Thanks in advance for all the help.

Instead of asking a bunch of people who have none of the same swing characteristic’s as you you should go to your local range or golf superstore and try every driver you can to see what is the best configuration for you, in other words get fitted for the club, the biggest mistake people do now is buy a club because of its name or because it works good for someone else , if you get fitted you will get a club with the proper shaft for your swing speed and the proper loft ect……
so do your self a favor and get fitted you will enjoy the game a lot more

Good Luck.

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you should get it replaced
it might also make your shot go left and right

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Hi all,

I’m a beginner to the game (only been playing for 4 months) but have picked the pick up very quickly and have fallen in love with it!! I bought some cheap Srixon replicas to start playing with but have already started to out play them (shooting in the 80’s) and want to buy some King Cobra FP irons. My mate has a set and they fell great and I’m real keen to buy some over eBay and save close to $400 in doing so compared to buying from a pro shop.

Is there a way of determining what lie and loft suits your swing without having to consult with a pro. I feel bad having a pro wasting his time in sizing me up only to have me buy the clubs off eBay.

Can anyone help… even a rough guess will satisfy. I’m 25, 6.1”, and I’m hitting my 5 iron consistently at 180m and having no difficulties in getting height with the ball.

I’m looking to have these clubs see me through for a few years and hopefully will see me hitting some real low scores. Any help will be appreciated

Cheer

Glad to hear you are learning fast and playing well. You have a couple of good questions that can be addressed and I would suggest that you consider a few more before locking yourself into any particular set of clubs.

Regarding lofts, you say you are having no difficulty in getting height on your shots so standard lofts should be OK. Loft however can be tweaked by about +/-2 degrees in most clubs if you find you need to adjust loft to make the distance gap equal between your clubs. You won’t know this until you get your set and try them.

Lie is another parameter that will need to be checked and adjusted after you buy your set. Regardless of your height, most folks have arms that are proportional to their height so a normal length set of clubs fits most folks. It is your swing plane that will dictate if you need an adjustment.

I admire your desire not to take advantage of a pro by taking up their time and then purchasing clubs elsewhere. However, there are many parameters of a golf club that can only be determined with a fitting specialist and a launch monitor. These guys typically charge for a custom fitting so you don’t have to worry about taking advantage of them. It may be the best money you will spend.

Since you ask about loft I assume you are interested in obtaining a specific ball flight pattern. Club loft is only one part of what determines ball flight. The flex of the shaft, flex point of the shaft, soft or weak tip, high or low torque shaft, and the low or high center of gravity of your club head also greatly determine the trajectory of your shots. The best combination of these parameters can best be determined by a fitting specialist and a launch monitor. That will allow you to try all the various combinations until you find one that provides exactly what you want out of your set.

Additionally you will be able to determine what swing weight of club allows you to have the best feel of where the club head is during your swing and the one that helps you to square the club at impact. Also, you can determine if swinging a club where the overall weight is a little greater or less than normal will help you to smooth your swing and still obtain maximum club head speed.

As a benefit, during your fitting you will get a chance to find out which of these combinations will let you vary the trajectory and work the ball side to side when needed and still hit your favorite "go to" shot when nothing fancy is required.

As you learn more about golf you will see that most of the performance of a club is due to the shaft that is chosen. The general public focuses on the club head because it is easier to see variations in the geometry that the manufacturer’s all claim to be the best.

Club heads are important but the shaft is really the key. Get a good fitting to determine the proper shaft / club head that fits your swing. Then buy the set that the most closely matches your needs or have a set made specifically for you. Golfsmith and others have very good selections of components that can make a perfectly customized set of clubs to exactly fit your needs. As a bonus, you’ll generally find a custom set costs no more than a big name set off the rack. When you get your new clubs spend some time getting used to them and learn the distances you hit each club – especially the irons. Then, take them into a golf shop and adjust the lie to fit your swing and tweak the loft if required to have exactly the gap you want between each iron.

You’ll be on your way to playing the best golf you possibly can. From that point on it will just be a mater of polishing your technique and becoming consistent.

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and other than keep my grooves clean, and stay aligned with the ball through the shot, any other good tips for spin?

oh and i heard the Nike Sumo 5900( squared driver) was illegal, is that true?.. just curious.. i just ordered one a few days ago and stumbled along an article saying it was illegal, i just want clarification..
thanks ;D

None of those brands will max out your wedge spin. If you want max spin, you might need to shell out for Tour style balls. Tour balls have urethane covers, which is softer than the Surlyn or Ionomer covers found on "cheaper" (for lack of a better word) balls like the Warbirds and Mojos. Urethane quickly grabs the grooves of your club, whereas Surlyn or Ionomer slides up a few grooves, then catches.

Another thing to help spin: play the ball about two ball-widths back of center. If you make ball-first contact and take a divot, that’ll help your spin rate go higher. Also- accelerate through the shot. Deceleration kills spin. Make you throughswing look like a mirror image of your backswing to make sure you aren’t slowing down through the shot

No, the 5900 isn’t illegal. The first square SuMo driver was… the first run, anyway. Subsequent products of the original were stamped with a circle on the sole, to let consumers know they were conforming,

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I bought a new set of MX-25’s to replace my Taylor Made Supersteels. I believe the lofts on the MX to be the same if not lower on some of my Supersteels. Anyway, I was hitting them at the range and on the course and my ball flight was quite high. I DO have a high ball flight to begin with, not crazy high but high. My old Supersteels, I hit my 9 Iron about 140. 7 about 160. Both with relatively little roll. On the new Mizzy’s, I’m hitting some clubs the same length if not 5 yards shorter…hard to tell. But the flight is higher for sure.

What options should I explore:
1) de-loft the clubs
2) change shafts
3) fix my swing
4) go back to my supersteels

I’d rather go in that order…but which will be more effective for me? And I’d rather not mess with my swing – being a new Dad, I don’t have THAT much time for golf anymore.
Thanks for the feedback thus far. Allow me to provide more details.

High ball fight is noticed pretty much all the time so head and tail winds aren’t really a factor. Both shafts on my TM’s and Mizzy’s are reg flex and the latter are mid-kick point. I don’t know where the kick point is on the TM’s but I do know that both are Rifle’s.

I wanted to double check the kick on the Mizzy’s so going onto their site, I noitced that the ball flight for the shafts I have are ‘High’. I think I’ll go with option #3….so maybe I’ll post another question as to how to pick the right shafts. Thanks again!

Spencer –

Very thought out question, when people ask good questions like this it’s easy to point out options.

Still you could have provided more info, like the shaft differences in both sets of clubs….how many times you’ve noticed this higher ball flight, example….was this one day on the range and you were hitting into a 10 mph wind? Or has this been a consistent problem…I ask this because there are a lot of factor that could be contributing to the high ball flight.

However deal with your 1 through 4 and then you’ll have a bit more information to make your decision:

1) Changing the lofts will also change the bounce of your clubs. Bounce basically helps the clubs not to dig into the ground, the more bounce you have the less the clubs will have a tendency to dig. You will be reducing bounce, therefore the clubs will dig more…..depending on what kind of turf you play on this could be good or bad. If you play on a lot of hardpan fairways this may not be too bad. However if you play on soft turf, you may find yourself taking 2 pound beaver pelt divots on full shots….which you don’t want….so be careful messing around with the lofts, those clubs are designed to play with the loft they came from Mizuno with, I wouldn’t bend them.

2) Changing shafts could be a viable option and depending on the shaft could bring down the flight….try looking into flighted rifles….I’m not sure if they’ll fit into your clubs, but a professional clubfitter could tell you…..this will cost a good deal of money….couple hundred.

3) Check your ball position, this is the #1 indicator of what type of flight you’ll have…you should be playing most of the clubs right in the middle of your stance.

4) You’ll have to make the decision on whether to go back to the old clubs……..trial and error…..the true method to figure golf out

Good Luck!

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Right i used to be adamant on playing with nike golf balls but now i have realised they are for more advanced players than me. When i play i shoot early 90s late 80s. I bought black Diamond golf balls because they were cheap and they have worked pretty well but i want to improve so what balls do you recommend? I am looking for one long off the tee but one thats very soft for spin around the greens?

With today’s balls, there isn’t much difference* between brands (or "tour" models and "cheapies, for that matter). Where it counts (and where the price-point rises) is the difference in spin from 100 yards and in.

There are a decent number of balls in the ‘tween category. Bridgestone’s 330-RX and e5 lines; Callaway’s HX Hot Bite; Titleist’s NXT Tour; Srixon’s AD330; Wilson/Staff’s Tx4, FG Tour and C:25 to name a few.

Buy sleeves of balls that interest you. Take all of them to the course, preferably when it isn’t too busy. Start off 20 or so yards off the green and chip all the balls in your test. Eliminate those that don’t sound, react and feel like what you’d like. Next, go to 50 or so yards and pitch to the hole. Again, eliminate those that aren’t for you. If you have more than two balls left, go to 125 and repeat the test. If you still have balls, go to the tee. If you still have multiple balls to test, go to the putting green. Hit putts, and eliminate those that don’t sound/feel good off the putterface. If there’s still more than one ball, go with the cheapest model as a tie-breaker.

It sounds like it’s an involved test, and it is. But the ability to knock out any "what ifs?" is, in my opinion, pretty important.

*= Nike’s One Platinum was found to be incredibly short (231 yards) off the tee compared to other balls in its genre (it also had the highest spin rate, in rpms, with half-SW shots). The test was based on a driver clubhead speed of 95 mph. At 105 mph, however, it performs just as well as any other ball.

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A little tiny little asian dude. Tiger got demolished and clowned in front of the whole world on live TV. Why did Tiger allow this to happen?

Tiger Woods has not won a major in over a year – is it fair to say that his days as an elite golfer are done, and that other golfers will beat him in the majors from now on?

Why does Tiger massively suck all of a sudden? Why doesn’t he just stop sucking?

I do not think his best days are behind him at all, in fact his best days may very well be ahead. It was hard to watch him yesterday, he’s never lost a two shot lead on a Sunday at a Major– ever! As huge of a Tiger fan as I am, I must admit he played awfully. Just his decision making was off and his putting was not as sharp as it usually is. He did not read the greens well, whereas he usually sinks those putts to close the door and win.

I think a lot of it has to do with his long lay-off after knee surgery last year, his timing isn’t all the way back yet. He’ll get there, but he’ll have to wait until 2010 to challenge for a Major at the Masters in April.

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