Click here to check out the best golf tips, lessons and tutorials online! — http://bestgolflessons.net
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Best Online Stores
Click in the image for the BEST DEALS IN GOLF CLUBS *official sites*
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Phil Mickelson in slow motion – driver slice
The Best Selling Golf Training Aid Ever(medicus driver)
http://tinyurl.com/cjqydz The Best Selling Golf Training Aid Ever (medicus driver)
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Tiger Woods – Signature Shots
Signature shots from Tiger’s career…a tribute in memory of his father, Earl Woods. Includes a slightly comical comparison of Tiger and Kal-el (Superman).
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What golf ball should I buy?
I usually shoot a 45 on nine holes and I’m 14, I drive around 220. I don’t spin the ball much on approach shots but I do have some spin. I sometimes have a little hook or slice but I hardly ever have a really bad one. I don’t want to spend the money on titleist pro v1 or any $50 ball
I work at a club and find my golf balls in the heavy roughs. I have enough to last me until retirement…..forty years from now. Unless you’re in the semi-pro tour, you don’t really need to buy golf balls.
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what is the difference between the golf clubs and drivers?
There are three basic types of golf clubs- The driver, the Iron and the Putter. All are used in a different why on the course. You only use your driver which is a club that looks slighly like a mallet, to tee off or start a long hole. If the hole is short enough you can use an Iron. Which doesn’t go as far as a driver but is more accurate. And you can use it anywhere on the course besides the green. And the putter is used for shots that are on the green.
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Titleist, Nike, or Bridgestone Ball?
Posts: 14
Has anyone played the Nike Ignite or Titleist NXT Extreme Golf Balls? They price is about the same for both as the Bridgestone balls. They all read like they do the same thing from each company’s website. I did like the Bridgestone E6 balls I was able to test for the most part. Just curious what feedback some others who have played them think of them.
I am a high handicapper (around a 28) so need something that has low spin. I sometimes slice, but most of the time it is a nice little fade. My chipping is improving, as well as my short game. So, I would like something that feels soft and will hold the green.
I have been using 2 piece balls like the Top Flite Super Straight XL 5000 but it feels like hitting a rock and I hate that. I’d like a ball that is a little softer feel.
Basically I need a ball that spins very little to reduce the sidespin on my ball. But, I won’t the best of both worlds and have something soft around the green. Has anyone played a
Golfblog,
I had considered the Callaway Hot but your review, as well as others I have read, don’t see to give me what I am looking for on and around the green. I guess it is more important that I play well around and on the green than to hit it longer since you only hit a driver about 14 times a round. It seems your review of the Bridgestone E6 confirmed this. Now my question is, for others, how they compare against the Nike Ignite Ball and the Titleist NXT Extreme ball?
I regularly play the Titleist NXT’s both extreme and tour pretty much exclusively. I buy them new on ebay. I go through about 6 dozen a year. I think they are the best in terms of durability and performance. The NXT tour spins better around the greens. it checks up out of the bunkers and on short pitches, rather than flipping over and releasing. The extremes will flip over more but are generally straighter on the long shots. I cant tell you about bridgestones because i have never played them. I have played some various Nike balls with out much to say about them. The Nike ones are too expensive and i beat them up too easily. Trees and cart paths are bad news to the thin covers. The same goes for the Pro V’s. I need something i can bounce off the path or off a tree and not have to replace. In my opinion the cheap balls like DT’s and top flites are way too hard especially when you are trying to be delicate around the green. I recommend the NXT’s, either line, are the best all around in my experience.
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High Swing Speed for Pro Vs?
I’ve heard from someone through a casual conversation that he mentioned that Titleist Pro V1 need high swing speed inorder to get the distance out of the ball. Is this true? If so, then what are the balls that dont require high swing speed and yet can reduce the chances of getting a slice?
Word of advice, don’t listen to anyone when it comes to golf technology except if that someone engineers golf technology. The titleist Pro-v1 and Pro-v1x are like any other golf ball. You hit them square and they go far and jump off of your clubface. That’s how they work. What that person heard and was regurgitating to you was this… When you swing your club, as the clubhead approaches 70+ mph there are affects of components. Most equipment is designed to show benefits at clubhead speeds of 70 mph or more. Some of the more expensive or differently labelled (ladies, senior, etc.) this speed may vary. But for men’s equipment it is that speed. Now what I mean by affects of components are this: shaft flex plays a factor, shaft kickpoint, and the type of ball and how it compresses as well as the hardness of its shell comes into play. That’s it. When you hear about the equipment that only works at certain speeds it’s only about half true. The schnazzy shaft you buy or the $45/doz balls you want will work, but if you can’t swing your club faster than 70 mph it doesn’t really change the results. Now, as for a ball that helps with a slice, that does exist. The pro-v1x has less spin, also it has less spin on short shots. What does this mean? In simplest terms, the urethane cover on the outside of this ball is hard, harder than that of its mate the pro-v1. Try to remember back to 9th grade science, when the density of something is greater than another, the subject with greater density will scratch the subject with lesser density. This translates into the idea that because the v1x’s urethane cover is much more dense it is less "scratched" or grabbed by the clubhead and comes off of the clubhead with less spin, sidespin, backspin or topspin. Therefore it reduces the affects of a glancing blow. This is how it reduces the INTENSITY of your slice. There are no balls that reduce the "chances." If you impose the ball with backspin accompanied by clockwise spin (rightey) the ball will slice. Hope that answers your question.
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How To Improve My Golf Swing?
I have played golf for few months, and with practices I expect that I could do better! However, I feel that there is something with my golf swing skills. I asked from some professionals and I do practice the way they asked for.. however, it is not working right!
Anyone can give me some suggestions or possibilities so that I can improve!? Thanks!
The key to hitting accurate approach shots is executing the fundamentals during your iron swing—setup, takeaway, backswing/downswing, impact, and finish. How you execute the fundamentals during these phases determine how well you hit an iron. Some professionals that give golf instruction sessions include the transition from backswing to downswing as a separate phase. Making a smooth transition from your backswing to your downswing is critical. But in the interest of space, we’ve included it as part of the backswing.
Setup
There’s no reason not to start with a good setup. Flex at the knees, stand firmly on the balls of your feet, bend from your hips not your back, adopt a straight (but not rigid) back, and balance your weight evenly over both feet. Think "rock and roll" to remind you that feet serve as a rock through your backswing and roll through your downswing. And don’t overlook ball position. It’s never farther back than your sternum or farther forward than your left armpit.
Takeaway
It’s critical that you make a good takeaway. Watch golfers who have low golf handicaps. Most will have good takeaways. Some teachers use the 2-8-12-rule in their golf lessons. During the first two inches of your takeaway, take the club straight back. From the second inch to the eighth inch, take the club back some more, but don’t break your wrists. This is a natural continuation of your takeaway. From the eighth inch to the twelfth inch, start breaking your wrist. At this point, the club should be parallel to the ground and the target line. In the rough, you’ll need a slightly steeper takeaway.
Backswing
Shifting your weight to your back foot is crucial in your backswing. It enables you to make a good coil and prevents you from making a reverse pivot. So keep until your weight shifts to your back foot. Keep your hands away from your body. At the top of the swing, a straight left arm is ideal but a slightly bent elbow is also acceptable. Your head should be behind the ball.
Make a smooth transition to the downswing. From this position, you’re ready to turn toward the target. Allow your hands to drop underneath your head as you begin shifting toward your front foot. The club should be directly over your rear shoulder. You should be approaching the ball with a descending blow.
Impact
This is the moment of truth. Good golfers know that at impact they need to achieve a "stacked" position to make solid contact. This position includes a full release of the wrists, a straight left arm (right for left-handers), most of your weight transferred to the front foot, and your hips open. Contrary to popular belief, the impact position isn’t the same as the setup position. With longer irons, allow for a slower wrist cock. This widens your swing and provides the flatter arc these clubs require.
Finish
Your finish tells you a lot about what’s going on during your swing. The correct finish ends with the bodyweight primarily on the front foot, the club behind you, and your head, chest, and belt buckle facing the target. You also should be balanced and able to hold that position indefinitely. From your finish position, you can tell two things: (1) if the majority of your weight has successfully shifted to your front foot, and (2) if your body has fully rotated without excessive sliding through the downswing, which will produce mis-hits.
Driving the ball is indeed sexy. But it’s only one phase of golf. If you’re serious about improving, you must master your irons, too. A 300-yard drive is worthless if you don’t follow up with an accurate approach shot. Use the golf tips we’ve provided above to hone your iron swing. It will help you hit more greens in regulation and chop strokes off your golf handicap.
Extract from ….whatever,i forget.
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What is the difference between a DRAW and a Neutral driver club in golf?
Hi, I’m looking at the Callaway FT-5 driver…and i’m wondering if there is a big difference between the Draw and the Neutral clubs. What sort of players should get which club?
I tend to push my shots a bit (both irons and driver), and sometimes have a big slice when i get lazy with the driver… I’m more of a natural fader than a natural draw…
thanks!
oh, and if i get a draw driver, should i also get draw irons to match?
the draw biased driver will be a few degrees closed to promote a hook when the ball is drawn, a draw when hit straight and promote a straighter ball flight when the ball is sliced or pushed – it is a good idea for a beginner or a player who hits the ball the same way every time – go hit one in a launch monitor and see what you ball does and a pro can determine if it is best for you – good luck
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How to determine your loft and lie (golf)?
Hi all,
I’m a beginner to the game (only been playing for 4 months) but have picked the pick up very quickly and have fallen in love with it!! I bought some cheap Srixon replicas to start playing with but have already started to out play them (shooting in the 80’s) and want to buy some King Cobra FP irons. My mate has a set and they fell great and I’m real keen to buy some over eBay and save close to $400 in doing so compared to buying from a pro shop.
Is there a way of determining what lie and loft suits your swing without having to consult with a pro. I feel bad having a pro wasting his time in sizing me up only to have me buy the clubs off eBay.
Can anyone help… even a rough guess will satisfy. I’m 25, 6.1”, and I’m hitting my 5 iron consistently at 180m and having no difficulties in getting height with the ball.
I’m looking to have these clubs see me through for a few years and hopefully will see me hitting some real low scores. Any help will be appreciated
Cheer
Glad to hear you are learning fast and playing well. You have a couple of good questions that can be addressed and I would suggest that you consider a few more before locking yourself into any particular set of clubs.
Regarding lofts, you say you are having no difficulty in getting height on your shots so standard lofts should be OK. Loft however can be tweaked by about +/-2 degrees in most clubs if you find you need to adjust loft to make the distance gap equal between your clubs. You won’t know this until you get your set and try them.
Lie is another parameter that will need to be checked and adjusted after you buy your set. Regardless of your height, most folks have arms that are proportional to their height so a normal length set of clubs fits most folks. It is your swing plane that will dictate if you need an adjustment.
I admire your desire not to take advantage of a pro by taking up their time and then purchasing clubs elsewhere. However, there are many parameters of a golf club that can only be determined with a fitting specialist and a launch monitor. These guys typically charge for a custom fitting so you don’t have to worry about taking advantage of them. It may be the best money you will spend.
Since you ask about loft I assume you are interested in obtaining a specific ball flight pattern. Club loft is only one part of what determines ball flight. The flex of the shaft, flex point of the shaft, soft or weak tip, high or low torque shaft, and the low or high center of gravity of your club head also greatly determine the trajectory of your shots. The best combination of these parameters can best be determined by a fitting specialist and a launch monitor. That will allow you to try all the various combinations until you find one that provides exactly what you want out of your set.
Additionally you will be able to determine what swing weight of club allows you to have the best feel of where the club head is during your swing and the one that helps you to square the club at impact. Also, you can determine if swinging a club where the overall weight is a little greater or less than normal will help you to smooth your swing and still obtain maximum club head speed.
As a benefit, during your fitting you will get a chance to find out which of these combinations will let you vary the trajectory and work the ball side to side when needed and still hit your favorite "go to" shot when nothing fancy is required.
As you learn more about golf you will see that most of the performance of a club is due to the shaft that is chosen. The general public focuses on the club head because it is easier to see variations in the geometry that the manufacturer’s all claim to be the best.
Club heads are important but the shaft is really the key. Get a good fitting to determine the proper shaft / club head that fits your swing. Then buy the set that the most closely matches your needs or have a set made specifically for you. Golfsmith and others have very good selections of components that can make a perfectly customized set of clubs to exactly fit your needs. As a bonus, you’ll generally find a custom set costs no more than a big name set off the rack. When you get your new clubs spend some time getting used to them and learn the distances you hit each club – especially the irons. Then, take them into a golf shop and adjust the lie to fit your swing and tweak the loft if required to have exactly the gap you want between each iron.
You’ll be on your way to playing the best golf you possibly can. From that point on it will just be a mater of polishing your technique and becoming consistent.
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