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You have seen movable weights, and in 2008 interchangeable shafts came to market. Now you can setup your driver to fit your swing; adjust the weights on the head, as well the face and lie angles as you address the ball. We look at the latest from Taylor Made Golf, the R9 Series.
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My driver is a Taylor Made R9 SuperTri. This viseo I will cover how to change the shafts out and the different positions or lie andle that you can set the driver to. The shaft that I currently use is a Fujikura Motore Stiff flex. See more amazing videos to help your golf game at: http://www.tobysgolflessons.com/Home_Page.html
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Check out the latest Taylor Made stand bag; the R9, and then get a grip with new gloves from adidas and Taylor Made. Don’t be fooled…innovations happen everywhere in golf; from lighter weight bags to breathable and flexible golf gloves. Check them all out at www.tmaxgear.com.
Duration : 0:5:28
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Worldwide Golf Shops has the largest selection of TaylorMade r9 drivers. Come check out our website or visit one of our 40 golf shops in CA, AZ and HI.
http://www.worldwidegolfshops.com
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http://www.internetgolfstore.co.uk/brand/taylormade/taylormade-drivers.html – TaylorMade Driver video looking at the TaylorMade R9 SuperTri Driver
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Worldwide Golf Shops offers the largest selection of TaylorMade Burner 09 drivers. Check out more video on r9 http://www.WorldwideGolfShops.com
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I am 13 years old and I dont no what ball I should use. The clubs in my bag are A Nike Sumo 2 driver, a Taylor Made 5 wood, Titelist 3-PW irons, and a Callaway SW, and a crappy putter. I drive the ball about 190-205 yards on average and hit my irons pretty well. I need help find what golf ball or brand of balls I shot be hitting. Any ideas?
i am also 13 and i use titleist tour prestige
i know you probably haven’t heard of it but they play good near the greens
if you lose a lot of balls, id get nxt tour or nxt extreme because for the play, its not really worth wasting 45 bucks on 12 pro v1s that you will lose after a couple of rounds
it all depends how good you are and how much money you are willing to spend
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Hi all… just in the market for a new driver to help out my golf game. I currently shoot in the high 80’s to low 90’s. My irons are Nike Slingshot OSS and I absolutely love them. I have an older Callaway Big Bertha driver, but I’m looking to replace it. I’m pretty sure that I’m settled on a Taylor Made Burner Driver, but I’m just not sure what configuration I want. For example, should I get the 9.5 or 10.5 degree club? Also, should I go for the Draw version or the regular version? As of now, I don’t slice the ball too bad, but it does fade on occassion. Thanks in advance for all the help.
Instead of asking a bunch of people who have none of the same swing characteristic’s as you you should go to your local range or golf superstore and try every driver you can to see what is the best configuration for you, in other words get fitted for the club, the biggest mistake people do now is buy a club because of its name or because it works good for someone else , if you get fitted you will get a club with the proper shaft for your swing speed and the proper loft ect……
so do your self a favor and get fitted you will enjoy the game a lot more
Good Luck.
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Personally I hate Top Flite (rock flight) It’s like beating a stone around the course.
I like Titleist
Too many variables here, plus a lot of hate, and if it wasn’t for Top Flite, and solely for Top Flite, we wouldn’t be as so far advanced in golf ball technology for all levels of golf. Golf ball manufacturers don’t make balls to be the worst on the market, but they do make ‘affordable’ lines, and they are designed just for that reason, and you get what you pay for, so price equals performance and feel. Top Flite, for example, quit making TOUR caliber balls several years ago ever since they were bought by Callaway. They just don’t make balls designed for that ’soft feel’ around the greens. The cheaper balls have a harder cover than core, and as the balls move to a more expensive set, their covers become softer than the cores, allowing for that softer feel, more spin, but with less distance. All of the major brands now use a urethane elastomer – essentially dressed up plastic and rubber – in their better balls as a replacement for the old balata covers ’cause urethane is actually softer than balata (also a type of rubber).
All USGA sanctioned golf balls have a max velocity along with a carry and roll limitation (along with a size standard). The USGA uses a specific swing speed (109 mph) and specific atmosphere and temp for testing, if any balls exceed the max then they are not legit. So concerning distance, no ball is longer than any other. Plus, the tour performance balls (Pro V1, HX-Tour, Nike One Black, etc.) fall well short of the distance max. That being said, it depends on what you’re looking for in a ball. Long drive contestants do not use the Pro V1 or HX-tour, and most TOUR players do not use Pinnacle distance balls. They use balls that match their capabilities and needs – uh, besides the fact they get paid to use the respective ball. Titleist (Acushnet actually) pays big big money to have the Pro V1 as the number one selling golf ball (ads, endorsements, etc.), especially to the pros and to the professional driving ranges at most tournaments, but that doesn’t make it better than the HX-Tour, and the latter can have its advantages over the V1 IF it fits the player’s skills. The same goes for Nike, Taylor Made, and Maxfli balls. And all balls have a compression factor and spin rate, so if your swing under/over compresses the ball, then you are wasting your money and time on a ball that does not fit your needs, regardless of you spending $7 or $47 per dozen. Like and hate what you want, but you need to sample many different types, which is why you can buy them separately or in sleeves of three, then use the ball that best gives you the performance you are looking for with the feel you prefer.
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i have made some changes to my swing when i can i’ll post my swing to yahoo answers but until then can someone help me figure out what i could be doing. i swing very hard and have a stiff flex shaft on my taylor made burner and i hit my irons straight but nothing else. i swing my burner at around 110 or higher mph. i do tend to push the ball. sometimes i aim well left and i’ll still push it and slice it. i have a considerably smooth swing but i do jerk the club at the beginning of my back swing, and i swing for the most part have a natural fade and when i want i can hit a draw but i’m going to be playing for my golf team this year. i hit my drives for the most part about 270-300 yards. i just wanted to know why i push the ball even though i aim well left? and what i can do to straighten out my drive for more consistency? please help me i need it
Without seeing your swing it is tough to say what it is, however here are some drills that may help you:
1. Tee a ball 1/4 of an inch off the ground. Place a 2×4 next to the ball (3 inches away.) Take 2 clubs (3 and 4 iron), and aim them at the target on the ground for a reference. Have the 2×4 touch the tip closest to the club next to the ball and the other end 3 inches in from the grip.
Swing away with a 7 iron without hitting the wood.
Why: a common cause to the slice or power fade is the outside to in swing pattern. Should you swing inside to out on this drill, you will hit the 2×4. Your divot should face the target.
This should be a good start to make sure your swing plane is correct.
Also, this should add another 5-10 yards to your drive due to closing out the club face. When you slice, the club face is open causing the loft to be open. By closing the face, your get more distance
Jordan
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